Creamy Cream-less Cauliflower Soup

Cauliflower soup is something that could be incredibly boring -- but it certainly doesn't have to be. This thoughtful recipe from "America's Test Kitchen" cooks the vegetable two different ways to attain maximum flavor mileage.

Ingredients

• 1 head cauliflower (2 pounds)
• 8 tablespoons (120 ml) unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces
• 1 leek, white and light green parts only, halved lengthwise, sliced thin, and washed thoroughly
• 1 small onion, halved and sliced thin
• Salt and pepper
• 4 1/2 - 5 cups (1.08-1.2 L) water
• 1/2 teaspoon (2.5 ml) sherry vinegar
• 3 tablespoons (45 ml) minced fresh chives

Method

1. Pull off the outer leaves of the cauliflower and trim the stem. Using a paring knife, cut around the core to remove it; thinly slice the core and reserve. Cut a heaping 1 cup (240 ml) of 1/2-inch (1 cm) florets from the head of the cauliflower and set aside. Cut the remaining cauliflower crosswise into 1/2-inch (1 cm) thick slices.
2. Melt 3 tablespoons (45 ml) butter in a large saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the leek, onion, and 1 1/2 teaspoons (7.5 ml) salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until the leek and onion are softened but not browned, about 7 minutes.
3. Increase the heat to medium-high. Add 4 1/2 cups (1.08 L) water, the sliced core, and half of the sliced cauliflower, and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer gently for 15 minutes.
4. Add the remaining sliced cauliflower, return to a simmer, and continue to cook until the cauliflower is tender and crumbles easily, 15 to 20 minutes longer.
5. While the soup simmers, melt the remaining 5 tablespoons (75 ml) butter in an 8-inch (20 cm) skillet over medium heat. Add the reserved florets and cook, stirring frequently, until the florets are golden brown and the butter is browned and imparts a nutty aroma, 6 to 8 minutes.
6. Remove the skillet from the heat and use a slotted spoon to transfer the florets to a small bowl. Toss the florets with the vinegar and season with salt to taste. Pour the browned butter in the skillet into a small bowl and reserve for garnishing.
7. Process the soup in a blender until smooth, about 45 seconds. Rinse out the pan.
8. Return the pureed soup to the pan and return to a simmer over medium heat, adjusting the consistency with the remaining water as needed (the soup should have a thick, velvety texture but should be thin enough to settle with a flat surface after being stirred) and seasoning with salt to taste.
9. Serve, garnishing individual bowls with the browned florets, a drizzle of browned butter, and chives, and seasoning with pepper to taste.